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Fes

A locally-written guide — where to stay, what to eat, and what not to miss.

The Fes guide

An insider’s read on Fes

and where GPS signals routinely die in a labyrinth of over nine thousand dead-end alleys.

Fes is a sensory assault of the most rewarding kind. While other destinations have adapted their ancient quarters for easy tourist consumption, this medieval city remains stubbornly, gloriously itself. It is a place where donkey carts still hold right-of-way over pedestrians, where the air alternates between the scent of orange blossom and raw sheep hides, and where GPS signals routinely die in a labyrinth of over nine thousand dead-end alleys.

Where to base yourself

The neighborhoods

Where you sleep shapes the trip. Here’s the honest orientation, area by area.

via Google

Fes el-Bali (Medina Core)

For Travelers who want to step directly into medieval history. The trade-off is constant noise, lack of vehicle access, and a high probability of getting lost.

The largest contiguous car-free urban area in the world. A dense, chaotic network of stone alleys, soaring walls, and specialized souks organized by trade.

Where to stayTraditional riads (courtyard houses) are the only option here. Choose one near a main gate like Bab Bou Jeloud for easier luggage transport.

Al-Qarawiyyin Mosque and University
Chouara Tannery
Al-Attarine Madrasa

via Google

Batha

For First-time visitors who want the medina experience but appreciate being able to get a taxi directly to their hotel door.

The western gateway to the old medina. It acts as a transitional zone where the car-accessible roads of the modern city meet the pedestrian alleys of the old town.

Where to stayUpscale riads and mid-range guesthouses cluster here, offering a balance of convenience and historic character.

Dar Batha Museum
Batha Square
Bou Inania Madrasa (short walk away)

via Google

Fes el-Jdid & The Mellah

For History enthusiasts interested in Jewish-Moroccan heritage and those who prefer slightly wider streets than Fes el-Bali.

Built in the 13th century by the Marinid dynasty. It features grand imperial gateways, the Royal Palace, and the historic Jewish quarter (Mellah) with its distinctive wooden balconies.

Where to stayFewer lodging options exist here, but there are a handful of restored Jewish merchant homes operating as boutique guesthouses.

Royal Palace Gates (Dar al-Makhzen)
Ibn Danan Synagogue
Jewish Cemetery

via Google

Ville Nouvelle

For Business travelers or those who find the intensity of the medina overwhelming and prefer modern amenities, bars, and familiar restaurants.

Designed by the French in the early 20th century. Wide, tree-lined boulevards, sidewalk cafes, modern apartment blocks, and Western-style retail chains.

Where to stayModern business hotels, international chains, and mid-range apartments.

Avenue Hassan II
Fes Train Station
Café de la Renaissance

via Google

Rcif

For Experienced travelers seeking an authentic, unvarnished look at daily Fes life, away from the tourist-oriented shops of Bab Bou Jeloud.

The raw, working-class heart of the medina. Centered around a large square that serves as a major food market and transit point for locals.

Where to stayA few deeply authentic, budget-friendly riads are tucked into the steep alleys radiating from the square.

Rcif Market
Place Rcif
Oued Bou Khrareb

via Google

Ziat

For Those seeking peace and quiet within the medina walls, away from the commercial buzz of the souks.

A quiet, aristocratic residential district within the medina, characterized by grand, sprawling palaces and wider, calmer residential streets.

Where to staySome of the city's largest and most luxurious palatial riads are located here.

Palais Mokri
Palais Glaoui
Quiet residential architecture

Eat & drink

Where to eat in Fes

Real tables, by category — from seafood and grills to the budget classics locals actually queue for.

Fine dining

Fassi cuisine is the crown jewel of Moroccan gastronomy, famous for its complex sweet-and-savory pairings. Fine dining in Fes takes place almost exclusively inside the courtyards or on the rooftops of restored palatial riads.

L'Amandier Palais Faraj

€€€€

Bab Ziat

Closed

via Google

Offers refined interpretations of classic Fassi dishes with panoramic views of the entire medina from an elevated terrace.

SignatureSlow-cooked lamb shoulder with prunes and toasted almonds

Dar Roumana

€€€

Fes el-Bali

via Google

A candlelit courtyard setting where a professional chef fuses local Moroccan ingredients with sophisticated Mediterranean techniques.

SignatureSeasonal menu featuring local duck breast with spiced figs

La Maison Bleue

€€€€

Batha

via Google

One of the oldest and most respected traditional dining institutions in the city, complete with live Andalusian lute music.

SignaturePigeon Pastilla (flaky pastry dusted with cinnamon and powdered sugar)

Tapas/local

While Spain has tapas, Fes has its own tradition of starting meals with a dizzying array of cooked cold salads, spiced cooked vegetables, and dips.

The Ruined Garden

€€

Fes el-Bali

$$Closed

via Google

Set in the romantic, overgrown ruins of a former merchant's house, focusing on rustic, home-style Moroccan dishes.

SignatureThe Moroccan salad selection (including zaalouk and taktouka)

Dar Hatim

€€

Fes el-Bali

Closed

via Google

A family-run restaurant operating out of a private home's beautifully tiled salon, offering incredibly warm hospitality.

SignatureBeef tagine with caramelized apricots

Cafe Clock

€€

Bab Bou Jeloud

$$Closed

via Google

A cross-cultural hub that serves modern, casual Moroccan comfort food in a multi-story townhouse.

SignatureThe Camel Burger served with spiced potato wedges

After dark

Nightlife

Where the night goes — clubs, rooftop cocktails and the rooms with the best live music.

Cocktail & rooftop bars

Alcohol is not widely consumed or available in the conservative medina. Nightlife is concentrated on the rooftops of high-end hotels or specific licensed riads.

Jungle Bar at Hotel Sahrai

Sophisticated, modern, and international

Ville Nouvelle / Les Mérinides

Open now

via Google

A chic, contemporary space with botanical decor, craft cocktails, and a DJ playing lounge music overlooking the city lights.

Mezzanine

Batha

$$Open now

via Google

Located just opposite the Jnan Sbil gardens, this multi-level bar offers beer, wine, and cocktails in a relaxed, dimly lit setting.

Rooftop at Palais Faraj

Elegant, quiet, and romantic

Bab Ziat

Open now

via Google

The ultimate spot for a sunset gin and tonic with an unobstructed view of the call to prayer echoing across the medina.

See & do

Culture

Museums, landmarks and galleries worth structuring a day around.

Museums

Fes houses its treasures in historic palaces and fortified structures, making the architecture of the museums as significant as the collections inside.

Nejjarine Museum of Wooden Arts & Crafts

Fes el-Bali

Closed

via Google

Housed in a spectacularly restored 18th-century funduq (travelers' inn), displaying traditional woodworking tools, musical instruments, and bridal chests.

Note€; plan for 1 hour; the rooftop cafe offers cheap mint tea and great views.

Dar Batha Museum

Batha

Closed

via Google

A late 19th-century royal palace housing a superb collection of traditional Fassi blue pottery, astrolabes, and carpets.

Note€; check opening status locally as it undergoes periodic restoration; features a peaceful Andalusian garden.

Borj Nord Arms Museum

Northern Hills

Closed

via Google

A 16th-century Saadian fortress overlooking the city, containing a vast collection of weaponry from various eras, including a massive 12-ton cannon.

Note€; requires a short taxi ride up the hill; offers excellent panoramic photography opportunities.

Landmarks & architecture

The architecture of Fes is characterized by plain, unassuming exterior walls that open up into breathtakingly intricate interior courtyards decorated with carved cedarwood, stucco, and zellij tiles.

Bou Inania Madrasa

Bab Bou Jeloud

Closed

via Google

One of the few active religious buildings in Morocco open to non-Muslims, featuring some of the most complex merinid-era stucco work in existence.

Note€; open daily except during prayer times; dress conservatively.

Al-Attarine Madrasa

Fes el-Bali

Closed

via Google

Located near the spice market, this school features an exceptionally delicate courtyard with a central marble fountain and intricate tilework.

Note€; compact site, easily visited in 30 minutes; look up at the carved cedar window screens.

Chouara Tannery

Fes el-Bali

Closed

via Google

The iconic, medieval leather tanneries where hides are cured in stone vessels filled with pigeon droppings, ash, and natural dyes.

NoteFree to view from surrounding leather shop terraces, but expect high-pressure sales pitches; take the offered sprig of mint to sniff.

Don’t-miss

Signature experiences

Traditional Hammam Ritual

Fes el-Bali2 hours

An intense, authentic scrubbing ritual using black olive-oil soap (savon noir) and a kessa glove that leaves your skin completely renewed.

via Google

Fassi Cooking Masterclass

Bab Bou JeloudHalf day

Learn the delicate balance of spices, preserved lemons, and olives by shopping for ingredients in the souk before preparing a multi-course meal.

via Google

Beyond the city

Day trips

Volubilis & Moulay Idriss

Explore the remarkably preserved Roman ruins of Volubilis, featuring intricate floor mosaics, followed by a visit to the holy hilltop town of Moulay Idriss Zerhoun.

Getting thereHire a grand taxi for the day from Fes, or take a train to Meknes and hire a taxi from there.

via Google

Meknes

A quieter, less chaotic imperial city known for its massive Bab Mansour gate, the royal granaries, and the Mausoleum of Moulay Ismail.

Getting thereDirect trains run hourly from Fes Train Station, taking approximately 40 minutes.

What it costs

Budgeting

Fes is highly affordable compared to coastal Moroccan cities, though high-end riads and fine dining can quickly elevate your spending.

Travel style	Per day
Backpacker	€30-50
Mid-range	€80-150
Luxury	€250+

Timing

When to visit

The ideal windows are spring and autumn, when temperatures are moderate enough to make hours of walking on hard stone tolerable. Summer is punishingly hot, while winter nights in unheated stone riads can be surprisingly biting.

SpringMarch to May brings mild daytime temperatures and blooming wildflowers in the surrounding hills. This is peak season, so riads book out months in advance.

AutumnSeptember to November offers warm days and cool evenings. The summer heat dissipates, making the intense smells of the tanneries and spice markets manageable.

WinterDecember to February is quiet and cheap, but the stone architecture of the medina retains damp cold, and many budget riads lack central heating.

SummerJune to August sees temperatures regularly exceeding 40 degrees Celsius. The medina alleys offer some shade, but the heat is exhausting and the tanneries smell particularly pungent.

Logistics

Getting around

Orientation map of Fes — Map data © Google

From the airport

Fes-Saïss Airport (FEZ) sits about 15 kilometers south of the city. Grand taxis wait outside the terminal; negotiate a flat rate before getting in. Alternatively, local bus number 16 runs regularly to the main train station in the Ville Nouvelle, though it is slow and often crowded.

Public transit

Within the historic medina, public transit does not exist because the streets are too narrow for vehicles. In the Ville Nouvelle, small red 'petit taxis' run on meters and are highly affordable. Ensure the driver turns the meter on before departing.

Passes & tickets

There are no integrated transit or museum passes in Fes. All historic sites require individual cash entry tickets, which are generally inexpensive, falling into the lowest price band.

On foot

Fes el-Bali is entirely pedestrian and can only be explored on foot. It is physically demanding, characterized by steep slopes, uneven cobblestones, and constant steps. Sturdy, slip-resistant footwear is non-negotiable.

1
Download an offline mapping app like Maps.me before entering the medina; Google Maps frequently loses tracking in the deep stone corridors.
2
If you get lost, do not ask loitering youths for directions as they will demand a tip; instead, ask a shopkeeper who cannot leave their storefront.
3
Always yield to the right when you hear the cry of 'Balak!'—it means a heavily laden donkey or handcart is coming behind you.

Travel smart

Safety & etiquette

Fes is generally safe regarding violent crime, but petty theft, pickpocketing, and aggressive scams are common. Be wary of unofficial guides who offer to show you the way or take you to 'festivals' that do not exist.

Local etiquette

Dress modestly: shoulders and knees should be covered for both men and women to respect the conservative local culture.
Always ask permission before taking photos of locals, particularly artisans working in their shops.
Do not attempt to enter active mosques if you are non-Muslim; peer respectfully from the open doorways instead.

From the ground

Practical tips

1
Always carry a small pack of tissues and hand sanitizer; public toilets rarely provide toilet paper or soap.
2
When buying leather goods or carpets, offer about one-third of the initial asking price and negotiate up from there.
3
If you need to get back to your riad at night, hire a licensed guide or ask your riad host to send someone to meet you; the medina alleys can be dark and disorienting after sunset.

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Good to know

Fes FAQs

Is Fes safe for solo female travelers?

Yes, but it requires a thick skin. Street harassment and persistent attention are common. Wearing sunglasses, dressing conservatively, and walking with purpose helps minimize unwanted interactions.

How many days do I need in Fes?

Two full days is the sweet spot. This allows one day to explore the core medina sights and tanneries, and a second day to visit the Mellah, gardens, and modern quarters.

Can I use credit cards in the medina?

Rarely. Cash is king in Fes el-Bali. Only high-end riads, fine dining restaurants, and large carpet shops accept credit cards. Keep plenty of small-denomination dirham notes on hand.